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Designer Karl Lagerfeld creates replica atelier

CCTV.com

07-07-2016 00:34 BJT

All the world's a stage and all the runway is a workshop. Chanel took fashionistas behind the scenes into its "atelier" for its autumn/winter haute couture show on Tuesday. The focus was on the intricate craftsmanship of its luxurious pieces, and the talent and hard work of its artisan workers.

All the world

All the world's a stage and all the runway is a workshop. Chanel took fashionistas behind the scenes into its "atelier" for its autumn/winter haute couture show on Tuesday. The focus was on the intricate craftsmanship of its luxurious pieces, and the talent and hard work of its artisan workers.

Designer Karl Lagerfeld wanted to shine the spotlight on the Atelier -- Chanel's workshop at Rue Cambon in Paris -- so he brought his skilled seamstresses into the show.

Acting as a backdrop to the catwalk, various workstations were set up with Chanel's real life employees busy cutting fabrics on tables, sewing jackets by hand and adjusting the hems of skirts on mannequins.

"You know, those women never see the dresses in the show. They work on them, but they never see them again. So here are the premiere, the women who run the Atelier. And (only) half of the workers because I couldn't bring them all, because we have two shows, they will be changed for the next show. And it is also interesting for the people to see how it is made, because it is still made in the way it was made a hundred years ago. There are lots of modern techniques, like laser and things like this especially for the embroidery and all that, but the basic dressmaking has not changed," Lagerfeld said.

The catwalk show featured models wearing black three-quarter length sleeves and thigh-high boots, both in loose, soft leather.

Also included was Chanel's traditional tweed pattern, which was used on cocktail dresses, as well as jackets. Coats were given a new twist with pinched beveled shoulders creating a "standing up," effect while jackets highlighted the waist with protruding pockets and wide hips.

"The broken corner, I think in France they say 'biseaute' (beveled). When you take a corner of the piece and turn it around, that's the idea. But there is no padding, so it's a very flattened profile," Lagerfeld said.

Neo-classicism influenced the silhouettes for evening looks with high waisted dresses in taffetas and ziberline joined by chiffons, organza, silk tulle and embroidered lace.

The traditional last piece of the show, the wedding dress, broke with the norm on the Chanel catwalk in that it was not white, nor a gown. Instead Lagerfeld opted for a pale pink pant-suit adorned with embroidered feathers.

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