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Traditional teahouses see revival despite globalization

Reporter: Tao Yuan 丨 CCTV.com

11-20-2016 14:35 BJT

Decades ago, many Chinese used to gather at traditional teahouses. But globalization and modernity have made it difficult for these teahouses to thrive, and the culture might soon be dying out.

A tea house that stirs the feelings of nostalgia…

“In the past, there were two teahouses like this on each street in Chengdu. The stove must be ready by 2 in the morning. Doesn’t matter if it rains and nobody comes. Even if you only have one customer, they’re still your customer,” said Li Qiang, owner, Guanying Teahouse.

Tradition brews in teahouses like this.  It’s where information is disseminated, matchmaking is made, and jobs posted and found.

Li Qiang spent his childhood in such a tea house. After years of working out of town and suffering a midlife crisis, he decided to return home and revive the tradition.

The customers here have made this spot MORE than just a place to enjoy a cup of tea. In fact, it has become a habit ingrained in many people's daily lives. This small teahouse is where young folks start their mornings, and where some elderly villagers spend their entire day.

It’s tough business with little money, and Li Qiang soon realized that. But running the tea house had already become a habit. And perhaps more importantly, a responsibility.

“Running a teahouse is like being in love. If you like it, there’s no other way, no other choice. If I close for one day, I worry about these elderly townsfolk. Where will they go?” Li Qiang said.

Today, the tea house seems out of place with the modern world. But its intimate atmosphere is attracting younger patrons from the city.

“The service we see in big cities, including that at high-end hotels, is very standardised. But this is not true with this teahouse. The service is comes naturally. It transcends money. It’s very down to earth, very sincere,” said Pan Mao, patron.

Even so, traditional teahouses find it difficult to keep up the fight against modern beverage chains. But Li Qiang has faith in his business.

“Some like mahjong, others like coffee, but as long as my teahouse is open, there will be people who will walk in,” he said.

And with that, Li Qiang believes his establishment will always be someone’s cup of tea.



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